Over hundreds of thousands of years our native plants have adapted to the very conditions that exotic plants must overcome with fertilizer, water and constant care. It makes so much sense if you think about it: They live here!

Native plants have adapted to the unique climatic conditions of their area and, once established, they require little or no supplemental irrigation or fertilization. When we grow plants found in our resident plant community, we use far less water than in traditional garden landscapes. Using native plants in our gardens conserves resources and saves money — as well as saving us a lot of work!

Before choosing which natives you want to grow, first assess your garden's conditions. Is it shaded by tall trees or the side of the house? Is it in an area with no shade at all? What are the soil conditions? Choose plants that are most at home in those conditions.

Growing plants from seeds in containers is one of the best ways to avoid seedling hazards such as weeds, birds, insects and water problems. You will also have a greater choice of varieties if you start from seed — plus you can save and grow seeds from your own favorite plants.

Methods for seed-planting vary, but basic requirements must be met:

1. Disease-free medium

2. Warmth and moisture

3. Adequate light

4. Adjustment or hardening off period.

Containers:

Containers must be clean and at least two inches deep. Cut-off plastic jugs, milk cartons and small trays all make satisfactory planters. You may also want to try specialized containers such as the 'plant it all' peat containers.

Soil:

Start seeds in a moisture-holding soil that is disease free and light in texture. Peat moss, perlite, or vermiculite are excellent seeding mediums. You may also use a specialized seed-starting soil.

Recommended Procedures:

1. Sow seeds sparingly in containers filled with two inches of moistened medium. Plant at the depth listed on seed package.

2. Water thoroughly and gently.

3. Cover container with clear plastic or slip into plastic bag.

4. Place in a warm area. When germination occurs, remove plastic and keep soil lightly watered and warm. Keep in full sunlight (or under a gro-lamp) for 12 hours a day. Temperatures should be between 70-80 degrees F. during the day and 60-65 degrees F. at night.

5. After the first true leaves appear, transplant to individual containers. If using peat 'plant-it-all' containers, thin to leave one healthy seedling. Small, stocky seedlings make the best plants, remaining compact throughout their lives, blooming earlier and more abundantly.

Seedlings started in trays or flats usually produce many more transplants than needed. Consider swapping varieties with some gardening neighbors.

6. Young plants need to be 'hardened off' before they are set outdoors. Take them to a sheltered, shady area outside for increasing periods of time during the day and bring in at night.

7. When planting outside, disturb the plant as little as possible. As with any transplant, amend the soil as neccessary before planting. If using peat pots, remember to plant the peat below the surface of the soil. This will prevent moisture from wicking out of the soil.

Looking around at the choices available in tomato plants, it's easy to get confused. What do they mean by determinate and indeterminate — not to mention semi-determinate? Should one buy an heirloom or a hybrid? Everyone knows what a cherry tomato is--but what is the difference between a beefsteak and a salad tomato?

Determinate, Indeterminate, and Semi-determinate

Determinate varieties are also known as bush tomatoes. They stop growing when fruit sets on the top bud, ripen most of their fruit in a short period, usually about 2 weeks, and then die. They generally require no staking or caging and are usually early-maturing. Pruning is not recommended. The plants and their fruit are generally smaller than indeterminate sorts. Most varieties that do well in pots are determinate.

Indeterminate varieties are also called "vining" tomatoes. They grow, bloom, and produce fruit until the end of the growing season (generally first frost). These almost always require staking or caging for support, and pruning may be required.

Semi-indeterminate varieties are basically indeterminate in nature, but have some determinate qualities, such as earlier yield and less need for staking.

Non-hybrid, Heirloom and Hybrid

Tomatoes are usually self-fertilizing. A non-hybrid tomato is one that has been allowed to self-fertilize to produce non-hybrid seed. Growers can save seed of non-hybrid tomatoes to plant the next season's crop. Non-hybrid tomatoes will grow true from seed. Old, non-hybrid, cultivated varieties are often known as heirloom varieties.

Hybrid tomatoes have two genetically different parents that are crossed each year to produce the hybrid tomato seed. Although hybrid tomatoes do produce seed, the seeds will not have the characteristics of the hybrid — though it can be fun to plant them just to see what you get!

General Types

Beefsteak Tomatoes

Beefsteak tomatoes are known for large size and thick, meaty flesh. The pulp cavity of this type is small and may resemble a "marbled" steak--hence the name. This meatiness makes them hold together well when sliced, and the large size makes them great for sandwiches. One slice does the trick!

Salad Tomatoes

Also referred to as globe or slicing tomatoes, this variety is medium-sized, meaty enough to hold together well, and juicy. The smaller size makes them popular for salad wedges (bite-sized), or sliced to accompany a meal.

Cherry Tomatoes

Measuring less than an inch in diameter, these tomatoes make excellent bite-sized nibbles or tasty additions to salads. Cherry tomatoes are also great for grilling on skewers. Sub-types include grape and currant tomatoes, which are smaller in size but slightly sweeter than regular cherry tomatoes.

Plum Tomatoes

Also known as Roma, these are egg-shaped tomatoes that have thick skin and flesh. They are less juicy than most other varieties, which makes them good candidates for baking, canning, and broiling. They also do well for sauces and paste.

Paste Tomatoes

These are dryer than other varieties; many plum tomatoes are also "paste tomatoes." They are good for making tomato paste and dried tomatoes.