by Tamara Galbraith

Broccoli is one of the few vegetables that can be grown all winter long in milder climates. Not only can it take a freeze, the plants seem to really like a few good frosts here and there.

One of the more unusual broccoli varieties you can grow yourself (since finding it fresh in stores can be difficult) is purple broccoli. Although, like purple beans, it turns green when cooked, purple broccoli is absolutely gorgeous when served in a cold salad or on a raw veggie plate.

Grow purple broccoli just as you would any other flowering plant — the heads are actually the flowers, after all — but be sure to pick florets before the tiny yellow blooms emerge or else the flavor will be tough and bitter. Side-dress with compost and a little extra nitrogen just as florets start to form, and make sure the plants remain well-watered. Maturity occurs in around 50 days, depending on the variety.

Generally, the purple broccoli plant does not grow as one large head, but sends up small florets from the sides of the main stem. If a central head forms, it should be removed (and eaten!) to encourage more side growth. Harvesting the side florets also encourages the production of more shoots.

Purple broccoli florets should be harvested when they reach about 1" across to ensure tenderness, and eaten right away at the height of flavor.

The Royal Horticultural Society in England tested several purple broccoli cultivars a few years ago, and found that 'Bordeaux' and 'Red Admiral' types produced early and seemed fairly resistant to frost. ‘Red Arrow´ produced the highest yields and also showed good winter hardiness. Other types include 'Red Spear,' Late Purple Sprouting' and 'Red Head.'

by Tamara Galbraith

During the winter months, when there isn't much to do except stare out the window or peruse seed catalogs, gardeners need to be on the lookout for a couple of tough pests that, once settled in, can be hard to control.

Fungus gnats, the near-microscopic flying insects that feed and breed within damp organic matter in potting soil, can actually be a problem any time of year. These tiny flying pests can spread pathogens, chew on roots and be a general nuisance. Fungus gnats' favorite hangout is the fungus existing in moist, organic soil, so the best way to battle these bugs is by letting your houseplants dry in between waterings. However, some overwintering houseplants — like those lovely amaryllis bulbs many of us are forcing during the holidays — like to remain somewhat moist. So...what to do?

A good drench of Neem oil through the soil is a good start, and a layer of sand on top of the potting soil works even better. This prevents the fungus gnats from reaching and subsequently laying eggs in the potting soil, but still allows moisture to reach the roots.

On the opposite end of the spectrum, spider mites can become a terrible problem for indoor plants when conditions are too dry, which is often the case during cold winter days when most of us are keeping toasty. If you notice a plant's leaves shriveling and dropping, or webbing in between stems and leaves, you've probably got a spider mite problem. Again, Neem oil is an extremely effective solution, and its low toxicity makes it safe to use around the house. The mites can be killed with several sprays of Neem. However, the humidity around the affected plant will need to be addressed to keep mites from returning:

• Keep plants away from the hot blast of furnace output vents.
• Spray sensitive indoor plants with water daily if possible.
• Move all sensitive plants together and run a humidifier near them to keep air moisture levels high.

by Tamara Galbraith

Using frost cloth can mean the difference between life and death this time of year. Maybe you're trying to squeeze in (and keep the bunnies away from) some lettuce before the really bad weather sets in. Or maybe that prized plant will only take temperatures down to 35°. Whatever the case, having a good supply of frost cloth — also sometimes called a 'row cover' — is a must.

Frost cloths can generally be found cut to several different widths and lengths, and woven into varying weights. Obviously, the thicker the fabric, the more protection provided. Some cloths advertise plant protection down to 20º, if applied correctly.

So, what are the advantages of using a frost cloth instead of a plain old blanket or plastic sheet? Most importantly, frost cloth allows both light and water to penetrate, instead of the fabric just getting soaking wet and heavy. Also, frost cloth is more breathable. If temperatures warm up during the day following the cold and you've left the cloth on, chances are your plants won't get cooked, as opposed to what could happen with plastic or cotton sheeting.

While you can just 'float' the row cover directly on top of plants, the best set-up is to install hoops or some other support for the frost cloth, making sure it is tall enough to not allow the cloth to touch the plants. Then, drape the cloth over the support and secure it on all sides and at the base, so that the warmth of the ground rises and is trapped around the plants. Office supply-type binder clips, spring clamps, and u-pins all work well for securing the cloth to your chosen support and to the ground

Timing is important, too. If you know Jack Frost is coming, give your plants a good drink of water and get them covered before sunset to trap the most available warmth.

Most commercial frost cloths can be washed in the washing machine on gentle cycle and re-used for several years. They are also great in the springtime as an insect barrier or shade cloth...or for keeping those pesky bunnies away.