By Tamara Galbraith

Ask rose enthusiasts what one plant disease they would vote off the face of the planet, and their answer will inevitably be Black Spot. It is the bane of the rose growing world, and has been for many years.

Thanks to the introduction of many new rose cultivars with built-in Black Spot resistance, this problem isn't what it used to be. But what if you are nursing a rose that isn't quite so sturdy?

As the name suggests, this fungal disease appears as circular black spots surrounded by a ring of yellow on infected leaves. Remove and destroy infected leaves and canes, and take these actions to prevent Black Spot from completely owning your rose:

1. First, don't irrigate late in the evening before water has a chance to evaporate from leaf surfaces. Better yet, water at ground level and don't wet the leaves at all. Also, make sure there is plenty of air flowing around and through each plant. Fungi love to grow in moist, stagnant air, so prune your roses periodically, especially after each bloom period.

2. If you do find yourself with a case of Black Spot, act quickly, as it can take over an entire rose bush in no time. A teaspoon of baking soda per quart of water is an effective fungus fighter. Some say milk works well. My personal preference is Neem oil, which boasts both insecticidal and fungicidal qualities, and won't harm beneficial insects. Another great product is Bayer All-In-One Rose & Flower Care.

By Tamara Galbraith

Ranking high on the beauty scale among the many edible spring flowers are nasturtiums.

Growing best when the weather is still cool, nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) can fill a trellis quickly due to the plant's climbing habit. The dainty yellow, red or orange trumpet-shaped flowers and round leaves also look lovely dangling from a hanging basket.

As is the case with many annuals, nasturtium doesn't like extreme temperatures, so be prepared for it to die after a frost or simply shut down when summer's meanest heat sets in. A better idea is to chow down on nasturtiums before either weather event happens; all parts of the plant are edible and have a nice peppery flavor not unlike cress.

While growing nasturtiums, keep a watch out for aphids, as they apparently like the flavor of this plant too. Periodic doses of Neem or insecticidal soap should do the trick. You can also use Dr. Earth Rose & Flower Insect Spray, which works effectively as well.

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By Tamara Galbraith

One of the many challenges in creating an interesting landscape is the incorporation of varying plant heights. Some plants will eventually grow tall at the back of the border, sure, but what if you need height now?

Enter ornamental grasses...the clumping variety, that is. Several ornamental grasses spread via underground rhizomes and can become invasive, so check with your local nursery if you're unsure about what to plant.

The non-spreading varieties should provide all the interest you need anyway. Ornamental grasses are incredibly low maintenance, grow quickly, and are naturally disease- and insect-resistant. The swaying, breezy movement they provide is unparalleled in its beauty.

Not only that, but ornamental grasses come in a variety of shapes and sizes suitable for any landscape. There are beautiful purple fountain grasses, spikey cool blue grasses, dazzling golden grasses and silvery Japanese grasses. There's even a dwarf variety with adorable tufts on the end called, aptly, Rabbit's Tail Grass.

Once established, most ornamental grasses require very little fertilization or water. Give perennial grasses a crew cut (down to 4"-6" above ground level) in late winter to encourage new spring growth.

1. Continue to plant summer vegetables
2. Plant morning glories
3. Plant irises
4. Plant tropicals
5. Plant tuberoses
6. Replace cool-season bedding flowers with flowers to bloom in summer
7. Replace parsley, if you haven't already done so
8. Plant a giant pumpkin for Halloween
9. Purchase, plant and transplant succulents, including cacti and euphorbias
10. Mow all grass lawns
11. Thin out fruit on deciduous fruit trees
12. Divide and repot cymbidiums that have outgrown their containers
13. Prune camellias if you have not already done so
14. Clean and prune azaleas
15. Divide and mount staghorn ferns
16. Prune winter- and spring-flowering vines, shrubs, trees, and ground covers after they finish blooming
17. Continue to tie up and sucker tomatoes
18. Remove berries (seed pods) from fuchsias after flowers fall
19. Propogate daylilies by planting their proliferates; cut off spent bloom stems
20. Remove the seed pods from white fortnight lilies, but leave the bloom stalks on the plant
21. Feed citrus, and avocado trees
22. Feed fuchsias, tuberous begonias, water lilies
23. Feed cymbidiums that have finished blooming, for growth
24. Fertilize camellias after bloom
25. Side-dress vegetable rows with fertilizer
26. Feed all container-grown succulents with a well-diluted complete liquid fertilizer
27. Fertilize peppers when flowers first show
28. Water cymbidiums, roses, vegetables
29. As the weather becomes drier water all garden plants regularly
30. Do not water succulents
31. Spray junipers and Italian cypress for juniper moths
32. Control mildew
33. Control flea beetles on dichondra
34. Control pests on vegetables
35. Control weeds among permanent plant by mulching or cultivating
36. Control weeds among vegetables and flowers by hand pulling
37. Keep bamboo from running into your neighbor's garden
38. Keep cymbidiums in semishade, but where they will get some sun
39. Mulch camellias and azaleas