By Tamara Galbraith

Good things come to those who wait, right? Well, winter squash will keep you waiting, but when ready, it is definitely a good thing.

The time to start seeds of winter squash is now, so that it's ready in the fall. Most types of winter squash take about 85-105 days to mature when grown from seed. As is the case with all members of the cucurbit family, give your squash lots of compost, along with regular waterings, throughout the growing period.

Winter squash differs from summer squash in that it must be harvested and eaten only in the mature fruit stage, when the seeds within have matured fully and the skin has hardened into a tough rind. At this stage, you can even store it up to six months for use throughout the winter.

There are several different varieties to choose from that are either vining, semi-vining or bush types. Choose whichever kind suits your taste buds and is appropriate for your garden size. Acorn, Delicata, Spaghetti and Butternut are just a few examples.

Most winter squashes, when cooked, are a tasty, highly nutritious treat. Cooked squash also freezes well. Hey, you waited a long time for that squash...make it last!

By Tamara Galbraith

It's the middle of summer. The heat is on, and while you're sporting a nice tan, your plants have suddenly taken on a pale, pasty look. What gives? Say hello to the fungus disease known as powdery mildew.

A common condition found on plant life throughout North America, powdery mildew is characterized by spots or patches of white to grayish, talcum-powder-like growth. Fortunately, it is usually more of an effect than a problem itself. In other words, in addition to treating the plant, you'll probably want to take a look at the surrounding conditions and make some adjustments.

First and foremost is to make sure you give plants plenty of room. Good air circulation goes a long way. Trim plants that have gotten crowded or bushy. Avoid overhead watering, and don't make late summer applications of nitrogen fertilizer, as powdery mildew loves to attack the newest plant growth which, of course, nitrogen encourages.

To halt the fungus in its tracks, spray with a good fungicide. We recommend you use Green Light Rose Defense. And next time around, try to choose the more mildew-resistant cultivars of plants that are most susceptible to powdery mildew, like zinnias, beebalm, crape myrtles, cucumbers and squash.

By Tamara Galbraith

A few years ago, a Mt. Gretna, PA, couple known for inventing wacky holidays designated August 8 as “Sneak Some Zucchini onto your Neighbor’s Porch Night". Any gardener who has successfully grown summer squash and zucchini will chuckle with understanding over that one. Invariably, we end up with way more zukes than we can possibly eat. We give them to friends, family and co-workers but every time we turn around, there's more.

Occasionally, though, people do have trouble growing zucchini. Here are a couple of common complaints, with suggested solutions:

Q: My zucchini/squash plant is producing lots of leaves and flowers, but no fruit.
A: This is usually a pollination issue, i.e., the pollen on the male flowers isn't reaching the female flowers, due to low bee and other pollinating insect activity. Female flowers have swelling at the base of the flower. Take a Q-tip, get some pollen from a few male flowers, and rub it on the sticky middle part at the end of the female flowers' pistils. You can also plant several bee-attracting flowers around the zucchini plants.

Q. I have some zucchini fruit growing on my plants, but the end of the fruit starts to go rotten before I can harvest.
A. Two things can cause this rotting: a calcium deficiency or an irregular watering schedule. Add mulch, such as Gardner & Bloome Harvest Supreme, around your zucchinis and water on a regular schedule. If that doesn't help, water a small handful of finely ground limestone into to the soil around each plant to raise calcium levels.