Prized, admired and planted extensively for centuries in ornamental horticulture, Japanese maples are definitely worthy of the adoration plant lovers extend to them. Plant Depot proudly offers both grafted varieties and green and red leaf seedling varieties. Seedling maples are not grafted and they grow much faster and larger than grafted types.

We receive only two shipments per year so the selection is for a very limited time. Japanese maples can grow in containers or in the ground. In the hotter inland areas a mid-day protection from the hot sun is good. Otherwise, they appreciate a good amount of direct sun, especially for the red leaf type to develop good color.

Materials needed for planting: peat moss, pumice (if the soil is clay), cottonseed meal and shredded bark.

Maples require acidic soil (peat moss is acidic). Cottonseed meal not only provides nutrients, it also acidifies the soil. Spreading used coffee grounds (like grandma did) under and around the plants also acidifies. White vinegar diluted 3-4 tablespoons per gallon of water is yet another way to minimize build up of salts in the soil.

Remember that chemical fertilizers are made of salts (ammonias, nitrates, etc.) In Southern California our water comes from the Colorado River, which has a fair amount of lime in it. When the water evaporates, the salts remain, so by reducing the evaporation rate with 2-3 inches of surface mulch, we reduce the rate of salt build-up.

All of this sounds very complicated, but it is really quite simple. Please enjoy your new Japanese Maple.

They are spectacular while they are in bloom. Up to 5-6" across tulip shaped flowers in late winter-early spring. Colors range from light lavender to dark purple.

These magnolias can be pruned to any size from six feet on up. They are excellent specimens for a focal point in the garden, potted or in the ground. The Chinese Magnolias require the same level of acidity as the Japanese maples. Grow in full sun for best blooming

It is not too late to plant anemones, daffodils, ranunculus or other "Fall" bulbs if you haven't already. |

It is a little early to plant Spring bulbs but definitely time to select and purchase them. We recommend "over-planting" bulbs with sweet alyssum, bacopa, verbena or other low growing flowering plants.

When bulbs begin sprouting leaves, watch for snail damage or other damage done to leaves. If caught early, pests are more easily controlled than after the fact.

Rose Care:
• Strip off all existing leaves
• Seal cuts after pruning
• Re-establish watering basins
• Apply first feeding of EZGreen Fertilizer and Dr. Earth Organic Rose Fertilizer
• Spray dormant disease control to give plants a clean start

Recommended technique for various rose types:
• Hybrid teas--cut to 18-24" high from bud union (base of plant). No side branches are kept unless there is a shortage of primary canes. Cut just above buds facing outward from the center. Make cuts at 45 degree angle, not flat across stem
• Floribundas--cut approximately one third of height. Leave as much side branching as possible while yet removing branches that are criss-crossing through the center of the plant
• Grandifloras--cut approximately one third to one half of the height. Like floribundas, leave side branches while trying to open the center of the plant.
• Climbing roses--Cut long climbing structural stems only a foot of so from the end. Cut side branches back to 10-12" long. Some side branches can be left long if they contribute to the structure of the climber.
• All rose types: Remove dead wood. Remove suckers (branches that emerge from below the grafted bud union at the base).