Some gardeners shy away from growing plants in containers because of endless "failure" stories buzzing in their heads. Container plantings are not difficult, but you do need to keep a few things in mind--including selection of container, type of planting mix, feeding and watering needs. These are the variables differentiating growing plants in the ground from growing them in containers.

First of all, different types of containers will lead to different types of watering needs. For example, terracotta pots are probably the most porous of the clay pots. This porosity allows the soil to dry out more quickly. Glazed pots are next in line. The glaze on the outside of the pot actually helps to keep moisture in more than a non-glazed clay pot would. Thick cement containers probably fall in line together with the glazed pots. Finally, there are plastic and some of the new composite material containers. These containers will hold the moisture far longer than the other pots.

The soil mix itself should breathe and should be light and airy. We recommend using an all organic potting soil, such as Garden & Bloome Potting Soil, for most plants. But be sure to use the right type of potting soil for your plant. Most plants do fine in normal potting soil, but the reason you'll see things like "cactus mix" on the shelves is that some plants have special needs.

Because plants in containers have a limited amount of soil area, they will need to be fed more often than plants in the ground. We recommend feeding most plants every two weeks with a liquid or water-soluble plant food, such as Monterey Fish & Poop, or every two months with a dry fertilizer like Grow Power. Again, some plants have different needs, so adjust as necessary for your own container garden.

Plants in containers can often suffer from dehydration, especially in the summer months of the year. Water those that need moist soil frequently, especially if your container is made of a more porous material. Drought-tolerant plants will like a pot that dries out quickly, but a water-needy plant will want to have consistently moist (but not wet) conditions.

If you let your potting soil dry out too much, the root ball will shrink and the water will run straight down the sides and out of the bottom of your container. If this happens, you will need to leave the water dripping into your container for a long enough time to rehydrate the potting soil. If the container is small enough, dunk it into a big bucket of water and let it sit there for a few minutes until the root ball expands again and properly fills the pot.

Container gardening is a wonderful way to add splashes of plants and color in all areas of your outdoor rooms, and for those with only small patios, container gardening is the only way to go. Just remember not to treat container plants exactly like in-ground plantings, and you'll be fine.

* First off, consider converting your overhead irrigation to drip irrigation for all non-lawn areas if you haven’t already done so. This concentrates the water where it needs to be (around the plant root ball) while eliminating excess runoff and evaporation.

* Water early in the morning when the temperatures are cooler and the sun isn’t as intense. Thus, more water will penetrate your plants instead of evaporating into the air. The best time is between 4:00 a.m. and 8:00 a.m.

* When hand watering, make sure to place your nozzle near the base of the plant instead of above the plant where water is wasted wetting the foliage.

* Water lawns deeper instead of more frequently when it gets hotter. You should have your timers set to water only until your lawn reaches the point of runoff. After that no additional water can be absorbed. Most lawns can get by on 20-30 minutes of water every three days. They may not look as good but they will survive. Deeper watering encourages the roots to go down further to chase the water which results in less heat stress on the roots.

* Raise the mowing height on your mower. Taller grass cools and shelters the roots below helping to reduce the need for more frequent watering.

* Add a granulated soil conditioner to the lawn to help break up compacted soil particles and aerate your soil, allowing roots to penetrate deeper into the soil. This also helps the lawn become more resistant to pests, disease and weeds.

* Cover open areas around plants and trees with a two-inch layer of mulch, such as Soil Building Compost, to reduce evaporation, keep the soil moist and cool, and to help prevent weeds.

*Make sure to pull weeds as needed to reduce competition for water and feed your garden at least quarterly to help your plants stay healthy and strong. Use a plant food with lower, slow release nitrogen to prevent rampant, soft, fleshy new growth that uses lots of water.

* Add a granulated soil polymer, such as Soil Moist, to potting soil when planting in containers. It expands when watered, holding water in the soil longer.

* Leave a two-inch space between the top of the soil and the rim of your container so that there is enough room for holding water without flowing down the sides of your pot. Place a layer of mulch or bark on top of the soil to help retain moisture.

By incorporating these garden tips every year, year-round and not just in a drought year; your garden will not only survive a drought situation, but also use less water, thereby helping to prevent future water shortages.

But the real story is that the psyllid has been found in Mexico, Hawaii, Texas, Louisiana, Georgia, Alabama, South Carolina, Florida and most recently, in California. Infected trees produce green, bitter, misshapen fruit that is unsuitable for sale as either fresh fruit or juice, and most infected trees die within a few years.

In June of 2008, the psyllid was spotted right across the border in Tijuana, Mexico. A few months later, it was detected in San Diego and Imperial counties. HLB is ravaging the citrus industry in Florida, and we all can help to put an end to this scourge by following some basic common sense moves.

Stopping the importation of infested plants is our first line of defense. A quarantine has been implemented on citrus plants and close relatives of citrus such as orange jasmine or Indian curry leaves, that arrive in airplanes, ships, trucks, cars or by mail, shipped from other states and countries.

Believed to have originated in China in the late 1800's, citrus greening disease shows the following symptoms:
• Blotchy mottling of leaves, and yellowing of leaves on a single shoot or branch
• Small, lopsided, bitter fruit that remains green even when ripe
• Twig dieback
• Stunted, sparsely foliated trees that may bloom off-season

Government and industry are taking steps to stop the spread of citrus greening and the Asian citrus psyllid that carries it. They are ramping up inspection of host plants at international ports, state lines, airports, and mail-sorting facilities.

Many areas in the United States have been put under quarantine, including Florida, Louisiana and Georgia. When infected trees are found, they are removed to prevent the spread to healthy trees. And there is a serious implementation of awareness campaigns at the national and state level to educate the public about this very real threat.

You can help by not moving citrus out of areas under quarantine for citrus greening disease. Do not buy host plants online unless you can guarantee that the plant is not from a quarantined area. If you own citrus plants, inspect them on a regular basis for the disease, and the psyllids themselves. Look for eggs, often nestled in crevices of unfolded leaves. Twisted and curling shoot tips, sooty mold, and white waxy deposits on the leaves are all signs of psyllid damage. And if you detect the insect, or an infected plant, report it. Act fast.

Until a treatment or a cure is found, stopping the spread of this deadly disease by halting the movement of plants is our only hope of saving America’s citrus.

We know it's a bit early to think about Halloween parties. But if you want some Halloween pumpkins, you need to plant NOW. The giant, prize-winning 500 pound monsters are usually started in late May, as they take 130-160 days to grow. But there are lots of pumpkin varieties that grow faster--and it's not yet too late to plant those.

You might want to consider those that are particularly tasty for pies or edible seeds. And keep in mind that the petite ones are great for decorations for Halloween and Thanksgiving.

With all varieties, it is best to plant 3 to 5 seeds in a mound. Space the mounds 2' to 3' apart. The small-fruited varieties will grow well on a fence or trellis. The larger varieties need ground space or individual support for each pumpkin.

Keep the soil evenly moist and feed every 2 weeks. If you are growing them on the ground, place straw or cardboard under the fruit as the pumpkin matures, to help prevent rot and insect damage. Pick them when the stems start to dry. Be sure to leave a 3" or longer stem for that perfect jack-o'-lantern top!

Gardening can be a tremendously enjoyable and rewarding activity. But it can also be the source of accidents, many of which can be preventable. Most accidents happen when gardeners take shortcuts, lack the skill or training to do a job properly, ignore potential risks, don't plan well or just have plain old bad luck.

While lawnmower accidents top the list of reported incidents, flowerpots (surprisingly) are the second highest cause of incidents: falling on people, cutting them or being the source of lifting injuries. Most accidents can be avoided just by using a little common sense, and while the ideas below may seem obvious to some, it's amazing how easy it is to forget them when we are wrapped up in a project.

Start by making your garden a safer place to enjoy. Design a garden that reduces the need for high maintenance. Double check for potential tripping hazards such as hoses, sprinklers, irrigation pipes and loose slabs of paving. When designing walkways or patios, incorporate surfaces that provide a good grip and aren't slippery when wet.

Avoid the garden when conditions are slippery. Don't leave sharp tools lying around--and if you are swapping tools, be sure to put the ones not in use with the sharp side (or tines) down. I'm sure we've all seen the cartoons of people stepping on a rake and knocking themselves in the face...but that's only funny in a cartoon.

Don't use electrical tools in wet weather, and make sure to wear safety equipment such as safety goggles, ear plugs and gloves when operating them. Also tuck in loose items of clothing.

Don't plant poisonous plants--or make sure that children and pets can be kept away from them. Lock away chemicals like pesticides and weed killers, or at least store them out of reach of children and pets. Never leave a barbeque unattended while cooking and make sure flames are extinguished before you go inside.

Empty wading pools after your children have finished playing in them. Avoid building a pond until a child is at least five years old and position it where it can be seen from the house. Grow plants around the deeper sides of a pond to help prevent children getting near the edge, or build a fence around it to keep them out.

Make sure ladders are put away or hung up when not in use. Ensure that the ladder is in working condition and the steps are structurally sound before using it. Never leave tools on the platform at the top of the ladder where they can cause injury if the ladder is accidentally bumped. Don't leave clippings on the rungs of the ladder where they might cause you to slip or trip.

When using a ladder, make sure it is tall enough to do the job. Be aware of the safety marks for standing on your ladder, and make sure it has rubber feet for solid footing. Always place your ladder on level, solid, non-slippery ground. Face your work and never lean sideways, overstretch or stand too high on the ladder. Last, keep one hand firmly on the ladder at all times.

Gardening should be fun and shouldn't be dangerous. Taking a few minutes to exercise caution will make gardening a much more enjoyable experience.

Pretty, isn't it? Like grass, only taller, wilder, less restrained. A true sedge and not a grass, it is a nuisance in the lawn--although the occasional plant can show real beauty in the very lack of its nice, neat, small blades.

Howard Garrett, a long-time organic advocate in Texas recently wrote: "There is only one guaranteed, foolproof method to completely kill nut grass (also known as purple nut sedge). First, dig out every tiny piece of the plant including the seeds and nutlets. Make sure you sift the soil through a mesh screen. Dump the collected material on the driveway and burn it. Sweep up all the ashes and seal in a concrete box. Drive to the coast and dump the sealed box 20 miles off shore."

A good sense of humor may be necessary in dealing with nut grass. It grows by spreading sideways, with multiple rootlets searching underground for water. When it finds moisture, the small root turns downward towards the water, sending another tender plant thrusting upward.

The most famous Cyperus family member is papyrus, an aquatic plant from which paper was first made. They both love sopping wet feet, thus are often found in overwatered lawns with poor drainage. Lawn weeds demonstrate that problems most generally exist with the lawn, rather than with the weed; provide the desired environment, and the weeds will come!

Most of us inherited poor lawns, or in search of the perfect suburban expanse, raced to plant our lawns without doing the necessary research. Did we use high-quality, amended soil? Was the grass seed used appropriate to the native conditions, taking into consideration the light and shade conditions? Was the seed an all-perennial blend? Probably not.

Removing the underground "nuts" is the best answer to ridding your lawn of nut grass, but they are recalcitrant, and most home owners will tell you that you can pull out nut grass, stomp it flat, cut it off, or poison the leaves, but with the roots still underground you will never be able to get them all. Regular mowing will at least keep nut grass from seeding, and combined with vigilant hand-pulling, you may eventually eliminate the problem.

Aeration of the turf is probably the most direct method to get some drainage going so that the battle with nut grass has a chance of being won. A core aerator--which pulls out plugs, allowing air to enter your impacted soil-- can be rented from your local garden center or hardware store. Then apply a "weed and feed" to give your grass a good feeding and to prevent the nut grass seeds from germinating.

If you live with ducks, geese and guinea hens, they will unearth and eat the tubers for you! Barring that, experiment with a mechanical weed-puller designed to remove dandelions, like the Weed Hound; hopefully it will pull out those little tubers. Either way, you'll be aerating the ground, and doing everything possible to fight the good fight!

White grubs are damaging pests that begin invading lawns in early spring and again in summer. Grubs do their damage below ground, so the problem often goes undetected until too late. Beetle grubs can turn a fine looking lawn into a patchwork quilt of yellow spots. In addition, birds and other animals will often start digging up your lawn looking for the tasty grubs to feed on.

The grubs are actually larvae of beetles and other insects; most are C-shaped and off-white with a dark head.

There are several types of grubs that are capable of damaging lawns, with two life cycles in a year. When you have grubs, the damaged areas of grass can be easily lifted and many times the grubs can be seen feeding on the edge of the healthy grass in the damaged area.

Natural controls include beneficial nematodes or milky spore (a disease that specifically attacks Japanese beetle grubs), although it takes a number of applications for milky spore to become established in lawns. It's an excellent long-term solution, but doesn't help much right now.

There are chemical products that are very effective for a grub problem, but only at certain times of year.

What does the term "systemic" mean on a chemical label?

Answer:
"Systemic" is a term that refers to a chemical that can be absorbed by a plant through the foliage or root system.

• Systemic insecticides not only kill insects and disease on contact but also remain in the plant and kill insects when they feed on the foliage.
• Systemic fungicides remain in and on the plant longer to not only kill disease on contact put provide a layer of protection to prevent future attacks for some time.
• With weed control sprays, the chemical is absorbed by the plant all the way down to the roots, completely killing the weed.

Systemic products should never be used on any edible plants or crops.